|
.jpg)
The town of Conil stands on the Atlantic coastline of the Costa de la Luz in the province of Cádiz in between the towns of Chiclana de la Frontera, Medina Sidonia and Vejer de la Frontera.
The town itself is situated on the slopes of a hill that descends gently down to 14 kms of gorgeous, gently shelving beaches of fine golden sand.
What makes the beaches in this area so exceptionally appealing, however, is that they are backed not by ribbons of modern development, but by crumbling cliffs, farmland, marshland and thick lush pinewoods, by fields of sunflowers and rolling hills and by the whitewashed cubes of the town itself.
Conil’s mild climate, with over 3,200 hours of sunshine annually and with relatively little rainfall and pleasant temperatures, is a major attraction, as is the gastronomy, the friendly atmosphere and the wide variety of activities available.
It seems that what was Andalucia´s best-kept secret is now out. Previously known only to families in Seville and Madrid and a handful of more savvy Europeans, Conil has begun to attract the attention of the discerning holidaymaker all year round.
In autumn, winter and spring Conil is a relaxed and enchanting town with its appeal to anyone who is looking for a stress-free holiday offering a wide variety of activities and places to visit. Meanwhile, in summer, Conil buzzes with excitement as the mainly Spanish holidaymakers flock to the coast.
The town has always been a favourite holiday venue for the inhabitants of the nearby cities such as Cadiz and Seville and still remains so, and so during the months of July and August and the first half of September it becomes a bustling seaside resort.
The population of Conil is around 17,000. Principally, as its location would imply, Conil’s past has always been tightly tied to the sea, with fishing playing a major part, and a large part of local life also being devoted to agriculture, with for example the artichokes being a specially prized delicacy in season, however Conil is increasingly developing its tourist industry.
The town itself is an attractive “pueblo blanco”, a town with whitewashed walls, typical of this area of Andalucia. As you stroll along the narrow streets you will be pleasantly surprised by the interior gardens flourishing behind the doorways as you catch glimpses of the famous Andalucian patios.
Indeed the town’s catchphrase is well employed: sensitive tourism.
|
|
.jpg)
Although the experts can’t agree about the origins of Conil, nomadic settlers devoted to hunting and shepherding inhabited the area. At Benalup there is evidence of prehistoric man: the cave paintings of Tajo de las Figuras discovered in 1913 prove that Neolithic man lived in the area. Close by there are also burial tombs carved out of the rock and a group of dolmens in very poor condition. But the first settlements in Conil have been dated back to the Phoenicians, as the ruins of a Phoenician necropolis in the area testify, and it is known that they also established rich tuna fisheries here. Even today from March to June it is possible to see the tuna nets spreading far out into the Atlantic, and tuna fishing is still an important economic part of Conil life with nearly the whole seasonal catch being sold to the Japanese.
Under the Romans, Conil was on the Roman route between Malaga and Cadiz: the Vía Heráclea, so-called as it led to the temple of Hercules at Sancti Petri, and its fisheries provided raw materials to the garum factory at Bolonia (Baelo Claudia). As they are with modern Romans, sauces and marinades were an essential element in ancient Roman cuisine. One of the most popular was garum: a salty, aromatic, fish-based sauce, which like so many other Roman treasures, was borrowed from the ancient Greeks.
With the arrival of the Moors, Conil became dependent on Vejer and the more than 500 years of Moorish conquest left an indelible trace on all aspects of local life, and although no physical evidence remains of its Moorish past, it is thought that Christian Conil was built over the Moorish one using the same materials, which explains the traces of Moorish in the street layout, the archways and the communal patios.
After the re-conquest of Seville in 1248, the Muslims began their exodus from the south and during the next 20 years or so a dividing line appeared between the re-conquered territories and those still under the rule of the Kingdom of Granada, and places such as Arcos, Jerez, Chiclana, Conil & Vejer had the word “frontier” tagged on to their names (de la Frontera) once re-conquered.
In 1299 an important event occurred in the history of Conil as a result of which: as a reward for his bravery in defending Tarifa, Don Alonso Pérez de Guzmán (“Guzmán el Bueno”) was granted the tuna fishing rights to the whole Cádiz coast from Tarifa to Ayamonte and as payment for services to the crown he received the village of Conil with instructions to repopulate it, strengthen it and protect it.
Over the following centuries Conil evolved and received two visits from different monarchs (1356 by Pedro I of Castille and 1456 by Henry IV) both attracted by the fame attained by the tuna fishery here (the “Almadraba”). Finally at the beginning of the XX century Conil began to receive its first tourists: families from Seville who would come for spells to exchange the intense summer heat of Seville for the cooling Atlantic breezes of Conil.
Besides all these historic locations close-by, the area around Conil also offers attractive landscapes such as the wine-growing region in the triangle formed between Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Puerto de Santa María; the vast bull pastures from Medina Sidonia to Jimena de la Frontera; the natural parks such as the Sierra de Grazalema with is rich vegetation and wonderful scenery and the Breña and Barbate natural park with its pinewoods and magnificent cliffs; and the picturesque pueblos blancos, the white villages in the triangle formed by Cádiz, Tarifa and Ronda.
|
|
Torre de Guzmán
The Tower of Guzman is not only part of the historical heritage of Conil but it also, in former times, gave its name to the town. Moreover, it is the main element in the shield of Conil de la Frontera.
In the second half of the fifteenth century, Don Alonso Pérez de Guzmán el Bueno (The Good) ordered the tower to be built, and it was finished in the 14th century in Gothic style. It is said that observers on top of this tower flashed signals to the French/Spanish fleet at Trafalgar with details of the British fleet movement and indeed on clear days one can easily see the cape from the top.
In 1988, its restoration started which was completed in 1992. The tower has since hosted exhibitions and the area beneath and around the tower is currently used in summer as a square where entertainment is provided by the Town Hall for the summer visitors, and a few stalls set up in the evening to sell their wares.
Church of Santa Catalina
The church of Santa Catalina was built in the 16th century over the ruins of another building, under the orders of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia, Masters of the village of Conil. Inside the church, the ancient statue of Nuestra Señora de las Virtudes (Our Lady of Virtues) can be found which is still venerated. The church also keeps an image of the Virgin Victoria, patron saint of the Friars Minors, and the Cross that appears to be a piece of work from the 17th century
The church stands in front of the square and gardens that carry the same name, which in summer becomes a small hippy market with tasteful stalls selling anything from alternative jewellery, African art, to T-shirts.
Church of the Misericordia
This church was built during the second half of the 18th century. It was Don Sebastian Sánchez Franco, Count of the Five Towers, and native of Conil, who constructed the church to give shelter to thirty impoverished families. Two distinct parts are clearly seen: the church itself and the surrounding rooms. The church, appearing more like a chapel, contains an oval ground plan and covers the central part of the structure. The rooms, which are located on both sides of the chapel, are built around patios and gave shelter to the families.
Chapel of El Espíritu Santo
The chapel was built in the 17th century by the González Manuel family. It is located in the fishermen’s quarter and it guards the image of Nuestra Señora del Carmen. The chapel was restored in 1969.
Church of Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno.
This pilgrimage church was built in the 16th century by the brotherhood «Hermandad de la Misericordia». In 1715, a chapel dedicated to the Virgen de Guadalupe was built inside this church on the orders of don Miguel Calderón de la Barca, a rich landowner from Conil. Inside the church the following can be found: the images of Jesus of Nazareth made by Francisco Villegas in 1632, Santa Lucía (assumed to have been built by Alonso Cano) and the patron saint of the village: San Sebastian.
The Watchtowers
During the Middle Ages, the areas of La Frontera (the borders between Christian and Moorish enclaves) were often beset by Moorish raids, skirmishes, battles and wars. That is why many towers and watchtowers were built along the coast during that time. They defended the town as well as protecting the tuna nets. Five watchtowers were spread along the coastline of Conil de la Frontera: Torre de Castilnovo, Torre de Guzmán, Torre de Atalaya, Torre de Roche, and Torre del Puerco.
Puerta de la Villa
The village of Conil contained several gates because it was fortified with walls. La Puerta de la Villa (gate of the village) is the only one that still stands today. The other gates have disappeared, although their names remain in the places where they used to stand such as: Puerta de Cádiz and Puerta del Moscón. Indeed wandering through the streets of the historic centre one can still occasionally make out a few remnants of the old town walls here and there. The town has always been a favourite holiday venue for the inhabitants of the nearby cities such as Cadiz and Seville and still remains so, and during the months of July and August it becomes a bustling seaside resort.
|
|
It is a delight to wander around the “maze” of small streets and discover the abundance of small shops that are often hidden away in the doorways of small white houses, typical to Conil and other towns of this area. There are several newsagents, gift shops, boutiques, a florist, lots of shoe shops and numerous small stores and supermarkets.
Opening times in this area are very flexible. However, supermarkets usually open until 14.00 hours and as late as 22.00 hours during high season with some boutiques staying open until midnight. In high season most shops open on Saturday evening and many supermarkets and small food stores also open on Sunday morning.
Daily Market
There is a daily market in the mornings, the best place to buy your fresh produce, which is situated in the part of town known as “La Bodega”. There are several fish, fruit and butchers stalls.
Friday Market
There is a weekly travelling market on Friday morning only. It is fairly large with a wide variety of stalls selling clothes, shoes, and gifts. It is situated in the parking area right on the Los Bateles beach of Conil.
Local Produce
This area is also an agricultural/fishing zone. Sample the delicious fruit and vegetables and enormous variety of fish and shellfish, many of which are only found along the Cadiz coast. The best place to purchase these is the local market.
Local Crafts
A wide range of local pottery made in different areas of Andalucia can be purchased from the “Ceramica-Viveros” found on the main N340 highway. You will find them on both sides of the road approx. 3 kms from Conil going in the direction of Cádiz.
Fish Auction
You may be interested in viewing the local fish auction at the port of Conil. This is approx. 5 kms from the town towards Camping Roche. There are two auctions daily (not Sunday) and you will need to be there about 12.00 Noon or 17.00 hrs (5 pm).
Petrol Stations
There are two petrol stations in the town. There is a petrol station on c/ Rosa de los Vientos, just in front of the Health Centre. The other petrol station, Los Molinos, is on the main road, Carretera El Punto on the left going out of Conil.
There is another petrol station approx. 2 km away on the main N340 highway, direction Algeciras.
There is another petrol station approx. 5 km away at El Colorado, along the main N340 highway direction Cadiz.
Chemists
Chemists’ opening times are the same as the shops and are usually indicated by a green cross outside. Spanish chemists can usually sell antibiotics for minor injuries without a prescription. There is always one chemist on duty. All other chemists will display a notice indicating which is the chemist on duty out of hours.
Retain receipts for any possible insurance claims.
There are several chemists in Conil and there is one in the main square: the Plaza de España.
Tourist Office
This should be one of your first ports of call if only to pick up a street plan of the town which is fairly handy as it includes names, addresses and telephone numbers of most local services from restaurants to chemists to banks to taxi ranks. The office is situated on the right hand corner of the first roundabout you come to on entering Conil by its main entry road: the Carretera del Punto.
|
|
|
|
|
Bolonia
